Saint-Maximin is 35km from the medieval city of Aix en Provence, 67 km from Marseille, and about 71 km from the seaside city of Toulon.
If you’re on the A8 motorway, take exit “34 Saint-Maximin”. If you’re taking the train, you can get here from Aix-en-Provence or Marseille’s “Saint Charles” station.
Saint-Maximin is a little village surrounded by vineyards and is protected by the Mont Aurélien, Montagne Sainte Victoire, and the Sainte Baume mountain ranges.
The Legend of Mary Magdalene
Legend says that after Jesus’ death, Mary Magdalene and some of the other disciples continued preaching in Jerusalem – but, eventually, the authorities felt threatened, and so the group was arrested, tried and sentenced to God’s judgment. They were put into a boat without food, water, sails or oars and set adrift.
Again, according to legend, the boat landed at Sainte-Marie-de-la-Mer. Lazarus, Mary Magdalene, her sister Martha and the other people separated and began preaching and evangelizing in the surrounding areas.
Mary’s burial site lost for more than 500 years
Eventually, Mary decided she wanted solitude and so she shut herself away in a cave in the Sainte Victoire Mountains, where it was said that she stayed for the next 30 years, until her death. Her relics were put in a crypt and then buried in 710 to protect them from being looted by the Sarrasins. But as time passed, people forgot where she was buried and so she remained lost until 1279.
When her relics were finally discovered again in 1279, Charles II of Anjou, the Duc de Provence, decided that a Basilica should be built to honor her. He was the nephew of Saint Louis of France and was later crowned the King of Sicily.
The history of the Basilica
He wanted the Basilica to be worthy of being a reliquary for Sainte Marie Madeleine, because of the growing number of pilgrims who traveled to the village each year. Pope Boniface VIII gave his blessings to the plan.
The construction of the Basilica was begun in 1295 along with the monastery (called a ‘couvent’ in French), next to it. The relics were put under the protection of the Dominican Monks who settled in the monastery.
The building was abandoned during the French Revolution, but except for it, monks lived there until 1957.
Interestingly, it became a fortress during the war against the Protestants. After the monks left, the property was managed by the state and became a cultural center. And then in 1999, it was sold once again and this time, became a hotel and restaurant.
The village of Saint-Maximin is a wonderful place to visit during your visit to the French Riviera. You can park your car and spend several hours wandering around on your own, or the Tourist Board offers daily tours, including to the cave.
Here is a list of the attractions you won’t want to miss seeing during your walking tour:
The Town Hall (La Mairie):
It was built in 1750 using the blueprints of court architect Jean-Baptiste Franque. He designed it to accommodate the royal visitors who came to Saint-Maximin to marvel at the remains of Sainte Mary Magdalene. During the French Revolution, the town hall was sold as a national monument, and then later, it was bought back by the village. It’s located in Place Jean Salusse.
The Royal Convent (Le Couvent Royal):
The religious community of the Dominican Monks settled in Saint-Maximim in 1295 and building began on the Basilica and the Convent itself.
The construction work was done in stages (because all the stones were hand cut and carved).
One of the most interesting facts about this particular order of monks is that they did not have to survive on donations from townspeople, as was normal for other orders in the day.
Instead, they lived in relative comfort and security on an income provided for them by the King of France.
Once the two main wings of the convent were finished (the east wing was finished at the end of the 13th century and the north wing during the 14th century), the monks moved in.
Their community continued to grow – so much so that they had to add another floor to accommodate them all! The last of the monks left in 1957.
Take your time strolling through the gardens and visit the library. These days, the former austere cells of the monks have been remodeled into very comfortable bedrooms, and the Convent serves as the hotel/restaurant and also hosts numerous musical and cultural events throughout the year.
If you’re eating at the restaurant, you can park inside the heavy stone walls of the convent – just look for the big blue metal gates and buzz the intercom to get in.
Otherwise, you can find parking around the Place de l’Hotel de Ville – ( the Town Hall Square).
The Basilica (La Basilique):
The Basilica is the largest Gothic building in southeast France. It is 73 meters long, 37 meters wide and 29 meters high.
Take the stone steps down underneath the main part of the church to the sacred crypt, where you can see Mary’s original sarcophagus, carved from fine-grained marble, which came from the Imperial quarries of the Marmara Sea, near Constantinople.
There is also an impressively gilded bronze reliquary that was designed by Révoil in the 19th century. The reliquary holds her skull, and below that, in the center of the reliquary is a glass tube, which holds a fragment of her skin, said to be the “Noli me tangere » i.e. « touch-me-not » or « cease holding on to me » or « stop clinging to me ». The relic is purported to be from the spot above Mary’s temple touched by Jesus at the post-resurrection encounter in the garden.
The crypt is also home to the sarcophagi of Saint-Maximin, Saint Sidoine, Sainte Marcelle, and Sainte Suzanne, who were all about the same age as Mary Magdalene, and all dating back to the 4th and 5th centuries as well.
Make sure to take the time to look at the rather remarkable altarpiece of painted wood done by Antoine Ronzen (1517). It stands just north of the nave and represents scenes from the Passion.
Above the main door is the world-renowned double-chested organ that was built in 1773 by the Dominican Friar, Jean Esprit Isnard. It has four keyboards and 2960 pipes! Only the quick thinking of Napoleon’s brother, Lucien Bonaparte, saved it from destruction during the French Revolution. He commanded that the “Marseillaise” (now the French National Anthem) was to be played on it to herald the arrival of French Revolution politician Barras as he entered the building.
The Medieval Quarter –
Just a short walk south of the Basilica takes you to the 13th century Medieval Quarter of Saint-Maximin. Notice the fine porch that once provided shelter from the weather to the many tradesmen and merchants who once set up shop there. Take a stroll through the Jewish Quarter with its classical, dark arcades and narrow streets. Facing the Jewish Quarter is the ancient cistern, which fell into disrepair during the 14th century, and was later transformed into a prison. Today it’s the Louis Rostan Museum.
Artist’s shops and stores –
You’ll find a wonderful selection of “Santons” the little carved wooden or ceramic figures that are set around the crèche during Christmas.
They are ceramic figurines that show the different types of peasants, farmers, tradesmen, and merchants from the Middle Ages. They make a unique display, especially at Christmas, as they are placed around the creche to witness and celebrate the birth of the baby Jesus.
There are festivals, fairs, and concerts in Saint-Maximin throughout the year:
– The Feast of Saint Vincent – last weekend of January.
– Organ recitals in the Basilica every Sunday at 5:00 p.m. – from April to September.
– Music Festival in the Basilica – July/August.
– Harvest Festival – third weekend in July.
– Feast of Mary Magdalene – end of July.
– Boules Grand Prix – last weekend in August.
– The Santons Fair – third weekend in November.
– Amateur Painters’ Exhibition – second weekend in December.
The Tourist Office is just across the cobblestoned square from the Basilica, and they offer information about the area in English, as well as guided tours.
Saint-Maximin is a short drive from the French Riviera, and well-worth adding to your vacation itinerary.