Are you planning your next vacation in France and thinking about coming to the French Riviera? But maybe you’ve heard that it’s famous for being a rich playground for the jet set? Or that some of its miles of white sandy beaches are for nudists only and the rest are wall-to-wall people turning red under the burning rays of the sun?
Okay, yes, that’s all true.
But there’s another side to the French Riviera, and I’d like to talk to you about a former fishing village.
With its pastel-colored houses with pink-tiled rooftops, wrought iron balconies brimming over with Bougainvillea, mimosa, and hibiscus, to name a few.
And then there are the restaurants: everything from bistros and small cafes to gourmet restaurants that offer a treat for the eyes as much as for the palette, St. Tropez has so much more to offer. There are miles of vineyards offering some of the best wines (red, white, and pink) that Provence has to offer.
The Romans and the Greeks are credited with bringing the olive trees to the French Riviera and today you can find olive trees everywhere – from private groves and on balconies, to parks. There is just so much to discover in the French Riviera.
Known as one of the “jewels of the French Riviera,” St. Tropez started as a small fishing village.
Today, St. Tropez is a beautiful and busy seaside village that really grew up in the 50s and 60s after being discovered by Hollywood. (Roger Vadim’s “And God Created Woman” was responsible for launching both Brigit Bardot’s acting career and St. Tropez into a mecca for the rich and famous).
But did you know that long before St. Tropez was ‘discovered’ by Hollywood, it was also a favorite hang-out of some of the world’s best know artists and sculptors? Camille and Lucien Pissaro, Albert Dubois-Pillet, Henri Edmond-Cross, Théo Van Rysselberghe, Henri Matisse, Robert Delaunay, Paul Signac, and even Van Gogh were inspired by the light here – from my first visit, the only way I could explain it is that at times, the light shimmers like a pearl that’s been dipped in gold.
Something else St. Tropez offers is narrow winding roads leading to unique little stores, and items you can only find here. There is a bakery here that specializes in the “Tropizienne” which is a mouth-watering cream cake name after the village. Also here you can find sandals named for St. Tropez. And the mosaic tiles leading to the fish market are worth a visit.
Of course, St. Tropez is still one of the favorite vacation spots of the “tres chic.” Walk through the open-air market in the Place des Lices (it’s open on Tuesday and Saturday mornings), and you’ll hear accents from all over the world.
As you meander along, you can’t help but notice the pastel-colored houses with red-tiled roofs, and colorful flowers spilling out of window boxes and over balconies. And just across the narrow road, look at the trim wooden sailing boats with their tall masts bobbing gently next to sleek, black and white yachts. Don’t be surprised if your “inner artist” wants to come out and do a little painting, alongside the artists who are painting on the pier.
And it’s still one of the favorite places of International stars of stage and screen. who come to see and be seen, and you never know who you’ll catch sight of while enjoying a cup of coffee or a glass of wine at one of the many outdoor cafes in St. Tropez.
People-watching is one of the favorite pastimes here, especially during the spring and summer months, when the sidewalks and narrow winding roads are crowded with tourists and sun worshippers
The beaches of St. Tropez are almost as famous as the village itself. Arguably the most famous is the “Plage de Pampelonne” which offers almost 5 km of glaring white sand, exotic boutiques, tiny sidewalk cafes, and elegant restaurants. If you want to rub elbows with the “beautiful people,” stop in at Club 55 after dark for a drink and a little dancing.
At the north end of St. Tropez, you’ll find the “Plage de Tahiti” which is another well-known haunt of famous – and infamous – celebrities. It’s always crowded, so go early if you want to find a place to stake a claim and lay your towel for the day.
Other beaches that offer breathtaking views, and great places to cool off in the Med are the Bouillabaisse, Baneliers, and Salins beaches.
Or you can head south past the Plage de Pampelonne to Cap Camart, and just beyond it – a little less accessible, but much less crowded because of it – are the “Plage de l’Escalet” and the “Plage de la Briande.”
And if you’re feeling adventurous and really want to get away from the crowds, go a little further south until you reach “Gigaro” – a truly beautiful beach in the village of La Croix Valmer.
Altogether, there are over 40 beaches in this area of the French Riviera alone, so if you want to lay in the sun, soaking up the rays during your vacation, you won’t have to visit the same beach twice.
But if your taste runs to the more adventurous or active, then you’ve still come to the right place for your vacation! You can find all of these activities (and more) within a short driving distance: Amusement parks, biking, boating, golf, hiking, tennis, racquetball, several fitness centers, fishing, horseback riding, miniature golf, surfing, swimming, snorkeling/scuba diving, windsurfing, para-sailing, jet-skiing, sailing, etc.
And you might want to put your credit card in an easily accessible place because the shopping here is out-of-this-world! You can find a little bit of everything from the very inexpensive to the very, very expensive and luxurious.
And if you enjoy a good meal, then dining is an experience to be savored. From the tiny sidewalk cafes, where the owner is just as likely to be your chef, to the fabulous three and four-star restaurants, eating has been raised to an art form.
You’ll find the food is always fresh, using the finest ingredients of the season, and presented so that it looks as beautiful as it tastes. (And don’t even think about rushing through a meal. Here food is savored and enjoyed, and your waiter will never try to rush you.)
When you’re tired of soaking up the sun, move inside and soak up a little culture instead. St. Tropez is home to some unique museums, Avant- Guard art galleries and there are special concerts, exhibits, and special events scheduled year-round.
A few places that should not be missed include:
The “Musee de l’Annoncaide” (Place Georges Grammont, near the harbor). The museum is housed in the former chapel of the Annonciade. It opened in 1995 and now contains one of the best modern art collections in the entire Riviera. Many of the paintings on permanent exhibit are of St. Tropez itself, but there are also paintings by artists such as Seurat and Matisse that make it well worth the visit. Other artists who are spotlighted include Bonnard, Braque, Dufy, Utrillo, Derain, and Maillol.
The Open Air Market (Place des Lices). Open on Tuesday and Saturday mornings, the open-air market is a fun and interesting way to spend a few hours. You’ll want to sample some of the amazing fresh fruits and vegetables, haggle with the street vendors and maybe pick up a souvenir or two. Bring your camera, and don’t forget to keep an eye out for celebrities!
Le Quartier de la Ponche is the old part of the city. It’s easy to get lost wandering around the narrow twisted streets and back alleys, although if you do, just stop and ask for directions – even people who don’t speak a word of English understand the word “harbor” and will be happy to explain how you get back.) And you’ll enjoy exploring the shops and houses that are solid reminders of the days before St. Tropez became “hip.”
Musee Naval (Rue de la Citadelle) is a memorial to the days when St. Tropez meant more to sea captains and admirals than to the sun worshippers of today. There are scale models of cannons and ships, old photos of the town, and a wide variety of interesting little oddities. The museum is a part of the Citadel, a structure dating back to the 1500s. (And if you get hungry during your visit, the Citadelle is a great place to take a break and have a light picnic lunch as well!)
La Maison de Papillons (Rue Etienne Berry) Papillon is the French word for butterfly. The “House of Butterflies” is one of the most incredible places to visit in St. Tropez. It houses over 4,500 different species of butterflies, including some that are almost extinct.
When you’re wandering around St. Tropez, don’t forget the nearby hills and mountains. Two of the small medieval villages that are worth exploring are Eze and St. Paul de Vence, now populated by artisans and craftspeople. Or if you prefer, plan a trip to nearby Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, with its castle that goes back to the days of Charlemagne. La Turbee offers visitors a look at Roman ruins and monuments – and is a vibrant testimony to the strength and power of the Roman Empire of the past.
A playful breeze pulls at the jewel-colored awnings above the sidewalk cafes, and the evening air is fragrant with jasmine and mimosa. Or, take a walk along the pier as the sun begins to set over the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean Sea, setting the water on fire and painting the sky with colors of old gold, ruby red, and ripe apricot. And after sunset, you can watch as the sky turns to blue velvet, to hold the diamond glitter of the stars.
.No matter how long you choose to stay, you’ll find it difficult to tear yourself away from the beauty and excitement of St. Tropez. Even before you leave, don’t be surprised if you’re already planning next year’s return vacation!