Situated on the top of a rock-strewn hill, at the very gateway of the Gorge du Verdon, in the south of France (not far from the French Riviera), sits a stone castle, complete with tower and battlements. (You can drive up to the castle.)
The castle was built in the 10th Century by monks from the St. Victor’s Abbey of Marseilles. Vaulted rooms and the cistern were built during the 14th and 15th centuries. Later it became one of the vast properties owned by the Comptes de Provence. Looking at it today, it’s amazing to think of all the stones being carried up on donkeys, and the stones cut by hand.
As with so many other historical buildings, it was destroyed during the French Revolution, And later still, abandoned and forgotten, it served for a long time as a stone quarry for the inhabitants of the village below.
The Chateau was finally restored during the 1960s and 1970s, when this amazing fortress was transformed into a hotel-restaurant..
Today, the Chateau de Trigance has been completely remodeled and is now one of the most elegant hotel/restaurants in Haute Provence (High Provence). Hortense Quevatre and her team will endeavor to meet your every expectation.
There are 10 guest rooms decorated in the Epoque style, with four-poster beds, period furniture, stone walls and area rugs over tiled floors.
The rooms are set around a huge terrace at the very top of the castle battlements, which offers incredible views of the medieval village below the castle, and the surrounding countryside. You’ll want to take photos of the neat rows of vineyards, the lush forests, endless groves of Olive trees and the Mountain entrance to the Gorges du Verdon (known locally as the little green Grand Canyon).
The Chateau Restaurant
At the entryway to the restaurant, a life-size suit of armor stands guard. The restaurant is situated in the old armory – and one of the unique features of this two story room is the way the upper and lower rooms cross each other. Each a long, rectangular room with rough stone walls and a dry-stacked stone ceiling. The dining room features a curved ceiling made from the same stones and comfortable, heavy upholstered chairs and square tables. Due in part to the strategic lighting (which includes heavy metal candelabras, some natural light from the tiny rectangular windows and discreet indirect lights) and the way the tables are placed, the atmosphere is both intimate and rustic.
Begin your meal with a wide selection of apertifs, which, when the weather is good, can be served out on the terrace and you’ll sit under a large, custom-made sunshade, while enjoying those amazing views of the Gorges du Verdon (the Regional Natural Park of Verdon), and the village below.
During the winter months, you’ll enjoy the intimate lounge below the restaurant, with cozy overstuffed chairs and intimate little nooks. (The author recommends “Hippocras” a drink dating back to the Middle Ages, which is a dry wine flavored with special herbs, spices and honey – it fits the atmosphere of the castle, and is delicious!)
The Food at the Chateau de Trigance
The restaurant offers an a-la-carte menu, as well as different “seasonal” menus that feature the best fresh ingredients and regional favorites. (For example, during the summer months when we visited, we had our choice of the “Knight’s Menu,” the “Page’s Menu,” the “Troubadour’s Menu” and the “Summer Specialtie’s Menu.”)
Considering the quality of the food and the sheer beauty of the presentation, the prices at this three star restaurant are quite reasonable.
As is common in the best French Restaurants, there are several excellent choices in each menu. The wait staff at the Chateau de Trigance have all been professionally trained, and so, of course, service is excellent. They seem to know what is wanted before the diner does – and they are quick to bring whatever is requested. And, as in restaurants all over France, they are willing to let one linger over each course, savoring each delicious bite.
It is truly a moment out of time, where all your senses come alive as soon as the first plate is set before you. Chef Théo Barberis, who is a native of the region, and a chef whose passion is to introduce you to his inventive and refined cuisine. They offer an excellent wine menu, but, again, I highly suggest that you ask for a recommendation of one of the smaller productions wines.
Other Things to Do:
Sitting at an altitude of 800 meters, Trigance is a typical village of Haute Provence with its stone houses topped with Roman tiles, and dominated by its medieval castle.
A historic trail leads to the museum, through cobblestoned alleyways, past wells and washing basins and quaint local shops.
Located in the heart of the Regional Natural Park of Verdon, Trigance is the ideal starting point for a visit to the Gorges du Verdon. Or, you could visit the Gorges first, and then go to the Castle, where you can enjoy a cool drink and some amazing food, and an amazing night’s sleep in a historical-looking four-poster bed, and beautiful decorations.
There are also many hiking trails offering hiking and walks for all levels, which crisscross the region and lead to Gorges du Verdon, (Europe highest canyon and known as its ‘Little Grand Canyon”, with it’s beautiful green river flowing through the canyon) and many sporting activities. It’s also only about 10 minutes away from Sainte-Croix lake and all its nautical activities. And another 10 minutes away from Valensole Plateau and its endless lavender, sage and sunflowers fields. Everywhere you look, the colors, scents and sights of typical of Provence.
Trigance is at the intersection of both the right and left sides of the Verdon, and the ridges of Aiguines, famous for its woodturners, and the beautiful little village of Moustiers Sainte Marie, which is famous for the iron chain hooked high between two cliffs where the Notre Dame de Beauvoir sits high above the valley floor, and its earthenware pottery.
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie has two Historical Monuments : Notre Dame de Beauvoir Chapel, situated between two cliffs and the Notre Dame de l’Assomption Church, which is on the main square, and accessible. During the summer months, you can enjoy the cool, quiet inside these monuments. getting out of the heat of the sun for a while.
The Church was made an official Historical Monument in 1913. Its bell tower has a Romanesque Lombard style and is one of the most beautiful in all of Provence. It is 22m high and has four levels. It used to move in the wind or when the bells rang, because the monuments were built during the 12th century!
The Chapel was built at the end of the 12th century, replacing a 5th century temple, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It combines 2 styles : Romanesque and Gothic.
The village is also renowned for its beautiful and distinctive earthenware pottery. (Which you can still buy from one of the many gift shops in the villiage today.) And so don’t miss the earthenware museum. You will walk though 5 centuries of art. Each room has its own style and color. You will see more than 300 beautiful and rare pieces. Moustiers keeps the production flowing, some pieces more contemporary than others. I have a small collection myself .The museum is accessible to handicaped people, and is proud of having obtained the “Quality Tourism” label.
Going along the circuit is a nice walk and you’ll discover many wonderful things in the surrounding villages.
With rafting, canyoning, climbing, fishing, horseback riding, equestrian sports and hiking, the Grand Canyon of Verdon is a paradise for athletes of all levels.
And if these sports are too tame for you, for thrill seekers, there are bungee jumps organized at the Artuby Bridge (the highest bridge in Europe at182m).
From Mount Lachens (1700 meters alt) you can also practice paragliding and hang-gliding.
And for nature lovers, there is the geological, historic route of the Templars, with many gastronomic stops along the way – (=to enjoy the traditional markets with honey, cheese, truffles and wine.
This area is filled with activities for everyone’s tastes, and it will be a once-in-a-lifetime getaway where you can discover a truly unique heritage.